Q&A with Katsuhisa Fujino: The Future of Japanese Wine

What makes Japanese wine unique?

Japanese wine combines distinctive local grape varieties such as Koshu and Muscat Bailey A with cool-climate vineyard sites and a strong focus on finesse and elegance. According to Château Mercian Chief Winemaker Katsuhisa Fujino, Japan’s wines are increasingly suited not only to Japanese cuisine but to modern Asian and international dining.

Japanese wine has come a long way.

With a winemaking story dating back to 1877, Château Mercian is one of Japan’s most established wine producers. The winery began as the Dainihon Yamanashi Wine Company, while the Mercian brand was introduced in 1949.

Today, Château Mercian is regarded as a leading name in Japanese wine, with recognition including Winery of the Year at the Asian Wine Review.

We spoke with Chief Winemaker Katsuhisa Fujino about Japan’s vineyards, Koshu, wine innovation, food pairing, and where Japanese wine is heading next.

Q1. What is the biggest challenge in maintaining consistent wine quality in Japan?

The most important thing is securing good-quality grapes. Even the best winemaking technology cannot compensate for poor fruit.

Japan's climate can be challenging, particularly during the ripening season, so Château Mercian works with vineyards across different regions, including contracted growers.

Yamanashi has been central to the winery's viticultural history for decades, while Nagano has become increasingly important for European varieties. Its inland, high-altitude vineyards offer lower rainfall, long daylight hours, and a cool climate that can be well suited to grape growing.

Q2. What can we expect from Château Mercian over the next 10 years?

The philosophy is simple: Japanese wine with “Finesse & Elegance.”

Winemaking only happens once a year, but Fujino believes there is always room to improve. New challenges in grape growing and winemaking create opportunities for innovation.

Rather than chasing a final destination, Château Mercian continues to evolve while building on the knowledge passed down by previous generations.

Q3. Why establish another winery in Nagano?

Château Mercian's expansion into Nagano is closely connected to its Mariko Vineyard in Ueda City.

The vineyard was established in 2003 and became the winery's largest directly managed vineyard. Previously, grapes from Mariko were transported to Yamanashi for vinification.

Establishing a winery at the vineyard allows Château Mercian to work more closely with the fruit and pursue even greater wine quality.

Q4. Where can we expect to find Château Mercian wines internationally?

Hong Kong has been an important on-premise market, while London has become another target market for Château Mercian, particularly Koshu.

The winery has also exported smaller quantities to markets including the United States and Singapore.

For Asian wine lovers and restaurant operators, this growing international presence is another sign that Japanese wine is moving beyond its domestic market.

Q5. Which grape varieties are performing well in Japan?

Japan's indigenous varieties remain particularly important.

Koshu and Muscat Bailey A, both associated with Yamanashi, have characteristics that can work well in Japan's humid conditions.

At the same time, Nagano has demonstrated strong potential for international varieties including Merlot and Chardonnay, as well as Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc.

This combination of native and international grapes gives Japanese winemaking an interesting balance between heritage and experimentation.

Q6. What is the future of Koshu on the global stage?

Koshu is becoming increasingly recognised internationally.

Modern expressions can show clean citrus aromas, crisp acidity and a dry, balanced palate, while other styles explore richer flavours and even orange-wine-inspired approaches.

For Fujino, the ambition is bigger than pairing Koshu exclusively with Japanese food.

“It is the ultimate goal that Koshu can be enjoyed in the world.”

That makes Koshu particularly exciting for modern Asian dining, where chefs increasingly blend Japanese, Chinese, Korean, Southeast Asian and Western influences.

Q7. What food pairs best with Koshu and Muscat Bailey A?

Fujino's recommendations are wonderfully practical:

Koshu's freshness and acidity make it a natural partner for delicate seafood and fried dishes, while Muscat Bailey A works particularly well with savoury dishes featuring soy sauce and sugar.

For restaurants exploring Asian wine pairings, these wines offer an alternative to automatically reaching for conventional European styles.

Q8. What is the best advice you've received as a winemaker?

Taste constantly.

Fujino recommends regularly checking fermenting wines by tasting them and observing their appearance—morning and evening.

He also strongly advocates blind tasting.

Without seeing the label, preconceived ideas about a wine can disappear. Blind tasting can reveal things you might otherwise miss.

As Fujino puts it, “There is only one truth.”

Q9. What is your most memorable wine experience?

Between 1992 and 1994, Fujino worked in grape cultivation and winemaking at Château Reysson in Bordeaux, while also studying oenology and tasting at Victor Segalen Bordeaux 2 University.

That international experience became part of the foundation for his approach to Japanese winemaking.

Q10. How should someone try Japanese wine for the first time?

Don't stop at Koshu.

Fujino recommends exploring both Japan's distinctive native varieties and the European grapes being successfully cultivated and made by Japanese winemakers.

His ultimate goal is simple: for people to discover Japanese wines that work with international cuisines.

And that's perhaps where Japanese wine becomes particularly interesting—not as a novelty, but as a serious option for today's global dining table.

Japanese Wine Is Just Getting Started

Japanese wine is entering an exciting new chapter.

Koshu and Muscat Bailey A are helping define Japan's identity, while vineyards in regions such as Yamanashi and Nagano are demonstrating what the country's diverse growing conditions can achieve.

For wholesalers, wine traders, hotels, restaurants, and F&B teams, Japanese wine also presents an opportunity to rethink traditional pairing rules—particularly as Asian cuisine becomes increasingly global.

Château Mercian's philosophy of “Finesse & Elegance” captures the direction nicely: respect tradition, experiment constantly, and make wines that belong at the table.

And Fujino leaves us with a refreshingly uncomplicated thought:

“The most important thing is that the wine is tasty.”

FAQs

What is Château Mercian?
Château Mercian is a historic Japanese wine producer whose origins date to 1877. It produces wines including Koshu, Muscat Bailey A, and wines made from international grape varieties.

What is Koshu wine?
Koshu is a distinctive Japanese grape variety associated particularly with Yamanashi. Its wines are often fresh, dry and citrus-driven, making them excellent partners for seafood, sushi, sashimi and other Asian dishes.

What food pairs with Koshu wine?
Koshu pairs particularly well with sushi, sashimi, oysters and tempura. Its acidity and freshness also make it versatile with a wide range of modern Asian dishes.

What is Muscat Bailey A?
Muscat Bailey A is a Japanese grape variety that can produce approachable red wines and is particularly suited to savoury Japanese dishes featuring soy sauce and sweetness.

Why is Japanese wine becoming more popular internationally?
Japanese winemakers are combining distinctive native grapes, diverse cool-climate vineyard regions, and modern winemaking techniques, creating wines with a clear sense of place and strong food-pairing potential.